posted by dpm on 08/14/2009
Sasha DiGiulian, comp fiend and outdoor fanatic fires off on her season to date as she burns through her latest crag. Interview by Anthony Lapomardo
Fresh from the Mammut Bouldering Comp and the cobbles of Maple Canyon.....roaming somewhere between Barcelona and Gorge du Loup....Sasha DiGiulian's mind and body is in peek shape. Having clipped the chains on her first 14a and headed to World Cup in Austria she found the time to answer DPM's questions between breaths.
DPM: How did you feel about the Mammut Comp?
Sasha: The Mammut Comp was a lot of fun, as always! I love the atmosphere and general psych that Pete and Jason create, it's fabulous! As for my result, I'm not particularly proud of my performance, I did not feel as if I had a good comp, but I also didn't train bouldering at all for it...I was in Maple just before climbing hauling Pipe Dream everyday.. So the transition from long, juggy endurance routes to powerful boulder problems was a bit of a shocker...and I was happy to be able to take part in finals!The limo ride from ISO to finals was sick!
Photo courtesy of Mad Rock
DPM: Do you favor outdoor climbing over comp climbing?
Sasha: I always love outdoor climbing soooo much more than competition climbing no matter how great the competition is... Climbing outdoors and being able to appreciate nature and real rock with my friends is what climbing is all about to me... A good time!
DPM: You are in Spain at the moment? What lines have you climbed? What are you working on?
Sasha: Actually... I am just leaving Spain now! I'm in the car on my way to Gorge du Loup with Magnus Midtbo. I arrived in Spain July 27 and climbed at Rodellar for about a week before going into Barcelona to compete in my first Adult World Cup! Rodellar was AMAZING... so much rock, so many killer lines, so much to be psyched on! I'd love to go back any day..! In Rodellar I did my first 5.14a (8b+) - Botanics- which I was happy about. It took me about 6 or 7 tries, the moves were quite powerful and at times reachy, but it just took a little time to figure out. It's a really cool feeling to piece something together and eventually complete it. Like a jigsaw puzzle!! I also did some on-sight and flash practice on easier 13's, including 5.13b on-sight of Coliseum.
DPM: When is your next big comp?
Sasha: My next big comp is now the World Cup on the 22 of August, after that the Youth World Championship in Valence, France the following week. I was going to climb outside in France then do The Valence Comp, however I was enthused by the World Cup in Barcelona to compete again in Imst. In the World Cup in Barcelona I made it to semi finals, however in semis I messed up a move early on in the route, so I didn't advance to finals. Hopefully next time!
DPM: Describe your perfect route...
Sasha: My perfect route would be long, steep, and sustained on crimpers!
DPM: What are your goals for this outdoor season?
Sasha: My goals for the outdoor season are to make as many trips as possible (where I live lacks in rock) and climb more 8b+ routes. Maybe an 8c too! I'm really psyched on routes right now, but I love bouldering outside as well so maybe a trip to somewhere like Hueco would be nice as well!
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