Ian Dory Does Paint it Black (V15) and Niky Ceria Sends Meadowlark Lemon (V14)

posted by dpm on 01/31/2014

In Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado, Ian Dory has sent Paint it Black (V15). The problem was established by Daniel Woods in 2012 and described on 8a.nu by 2nd ascentionist Paul Robinson as a “pure roof boulder with incredible movements.” Ian had quite a battle with the problem, investing over 100 tries during a few seasons of effort.

Click the image for video of Daniel Woods on the first ascent of Paint it Black (V15). Footage starts at 7:15.

In June of 2012, Ian Dory sent The Wheel of Life in Australia's Grampians. Click the image for footage of that ascent.

After a good start to his trip in Red Rock, Nevada, Italian Niky Ceria finished up strong with an ascent of Meadowlark Lemon Sit (V14). He also did some more beautiful climbs like Abstraction (V9), a problem he called on his blog, “one of the best problems of this difficulty I have done” as well as Stand and Deliver (V9/10), Siren’s Call (V11), Wet Dream (V12), and its alternate left start, Nocturnal Emissions (V13). Niky is now in Bishop, California where he says the climbing is “totally different. Sharp granite, painful edges and bad holds.” He’s already managed to tick off the Buttermilker (V12) and Haroun and the Sea of Stories (V12).

Niky Ceria on Abstraction (V9). He described the problem on his blog: "It is simply emotional at its sight. It appears like a big chip of milky chocolate, with sidepulls for the right hand and a lip for the left one, characterized by a technical climbing style that (reminds) me of Fontainebleau." Photo: Giulia Paoletti/Niky's blog

In other Bishop bouldering news, Jimmy Webb was able to finish off Spectre (V13) on the first try of his 2nd day on the problem. Nick Duttle is also visiting and yesterday, both he and Jimmy sent A Maze of Death (V12). Visiting from France, Thomas Caleyron ticked the Buttermilker Sit (V13).

Source: Niky Ceria’s blog, 8a.nu