posted by dpm on 08/08/2012
The Brits have been combining bouldering and traditional tactics for decades. Legendary bold climbers like Johnny Dawes, Jerry Moffat, John Dunne and others have pushed the limits of danger on the UK's infamous gritstone routes. After toprope rehearsal, they cast off on the sharp end, tied in with as many as three or four ropes, over a stack of crash pads. Broken bones and shattered egos are commonplace.
Until recently, American climbers -enjoying the benefits of taller cliffs- have eschewed these brave, hard grit tactics. But one man, with the British-sounding name Nyles, has applied these practices to the Gunks of New York for a bold new hybrid project. Grab a towel to dry your palms with and hit the play button. I don't want to ruin the ending, but stay tuned for the full-on Adam Ondra-style wobbler.