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Hard FA's in Arkansas by Jimmy Webb

posted by dpm on 01/15/2011

Despite ‘popping a tendon’ in his finger just over a month ago, Jimmy has been able to climb at near full capacity. After sending a few hard problems in Hueco that he considered ‘not too crimpy’, he headed to Arkansas and started looking for ways to make the established problems harder. 
 

   

Jimmy on Anti-Hero, Horseshoe Canyon Ranch, Arkansas.  Photo: facebook

   

 
First up was the low start to Fat Boy Deluxe (V8) which checks in at V12. The problem is in the Goat Cave at Horseshoe Canyon Ranch and Jimmy remarked on his 8a.nu scorecard that he was “surprised to send due to the right hand edge”.

He then added a sit start to Loved by Few, Hated by Many (V12/13) which bumps it up a grade creating a new V14 at the Ranch. Lastly, he established a direct variation to the popular problem Off the Rails (V10) at Dub’s Cave, near Cowell, called Cutting the Habit. Jimmy proposed a grade of ‘hard’ V11 for this one.

Not a bad ticklist for a guy with a bad finger. Nice work Jimmy.