posted by dpm on 01/28/2013
Just one month after his send of The Island (V14) in Fontainebleau, France, Jan Hojer added the sit start for The Big Island (V15). Jan has firmly established himself as one of the world's top boulderers recently with multiple other hard problems like the 2nd ascents of Off the Wagon (V14/15) and Momentum (V14/15) in Val Bavona, Switzerland. Though this is the first problem Jan has suggested V15 (soft) for on his 8a.nu scorecard, both Off the Wagon and Momentum were suggested at V15 by first ascentionist Nalle Hukkataival. Last summer, Jan went on a tear in Rocklands and ticked a ton of hard problems including multiple V12 flashes. Watch his rampage through the boulders of Rocklands by clicking on the image below.
Nalle Hukkataival, fresh off a first ascent spree in Peñoles, Mexico, was able to claim the 3rd ascent of Blood of a Young Wolf (V14) in Hueco Tanks, Texas. The problem, established by Dave Graham in March of 2012 and repeated by Sam Davis last month, lies deep within a dark corridor and climbs through a series of bad holds on a steep belly. On his 27crags ticklist, Nalle commented, "Tried it 1 day and did it the next in the worst imaginable conditions. Great problem on the best kind of Hueco rock. I like it because it forced me to climb in a style that I'm not so good at. The project next!" After Dave's ascent of Blood of a Young Wolf, he noted on 8a.nu, "A low start to one of two exits: a 7c+ version which heads right, or an undone left exit, which remains a project despite a massive onslaught of attempts from our posse. (edit) 8c without a DOUBT!" Could this be the project that Nalle is referring to? Click the image below for video of Nalle on Blood of a Young Wolf.