Hard Bouldering in South Africa Reaches a Crescendo

posted by dpm on 07/26/2012


South Africa is the place to be for perfect, cold 'summertime' send conditions. It seems that every top climber in the world is there right now sending hard problem after hard problem. 

In Cape Town, Carlo Traversi and Paul Robinson have been hard at work putting up new problems. Carlo repeated Mirta (V14) a crimpy problem put up by Paul last year. He also got the first ascent of Ground Swell (V13), and Inclement Summer (V12) to round out a total of 13 ascents V12 or harder. Paul has put up a couple of hard problems recently like Honig and Mr. Postman (both V13), as well as 2nd ascents of Ground Swell, Skobbejak (both V13) and in Rocklands, King of Limbs (V14).

Carlo on the first ascent of Ground Swell (V13). Photo: Carlo's blog

You might remember that Nalle Hukkataival and Dave Graham rolled through Cape Town on their way to Rocklands and both repeated A Simple Knowing. The problem, established last year by Robinson, was originally graded V15 but new beta found by the duo has brought it down to V13 or V14. Dave also put down Skobbejak (V13), E-cig (V12) and Honig (suggested V12).

Next, they joined forces with Daniel Woods in Rocklands for a send-fest on Fred Nicole's V14 Golden Shadow (all three sent). Daniel also flashed Tea with Elmarie (V12).

8a.nu reported that Martin Mobråten did Mooiste Meisie and Madiba (both given V14) in less than 30 minutes each and suggested V13 for both. He also sent the V12's Green Mamba, Tea With Elmarie, Steakhouse, Oral Office, and Black Shadow.

Man of the hour goes to 20-year-old German, Jan Hojer. According to his 8a scorecard, in a non-stop 7 day push in Rocklands, Jan managed to send 17 boulders that were V11 or harder. Highlights include ascents of Derailed (V14) and Sky (V13 or 14) as well as flashes of Green Mamba (V12) and El Corazon (V13, though Jan suggested V12). El Corazon is the problem we've all been drooling over while watching the video of Michele Caminati's recent ascent. Unfortunately, Jan had the camera all set up but didn't catch the send. He commented, "I thought it's ridiculous to record the first try!"

Michele Caminati on the beautiful heart-shaped El Corazon (V13). Click for video.

Fortunately, many of the big sends are being caught on film this year thanks to Clement Perotti, who is offering up some excellent free videos. He's been keeping up with his goal of one clip a week and all that's been slowing him down is slow internet. Follow the links below for some recent Rocklands videos.

Week 1, Week 2, Week 3 part1, Week 3 part 2, Week 4, Bonus: Caminati on El Corazon.