posted by dpm on 10/19/2011
I was compiling news for today, deciding what to post online and I saw that Adam Ondra claimed another V15 first ascent. I barely paused on it as my eyes continued to wander down the page until… “Wait! Ondra put up a new V15!” I had just about glazed over it because it was sandwiched in between a bunch of other big news. “What the hell is happening?” I realized, it’s October and everyone is sending their projects in the prime season with ease. Here is a quick rundown of big sends in just the past few days:
Guillame Lebret reports on his blog that he has claimed the third ascent of ‘the new’ Trip Tik Tonik (5.14d) in France’s Gorges du Loup. The original line was given 5.14c but it used two manufactured holds. One broke off and the other was removed after Guillame found a new sequence. The first redpoint of the new version went to Cedric Lo Piccolo and the second to Gerome Pouvreau. Trip Tik Tonik has been called one the best routes in Europe.
According to his 8a scorecard, Adam Ondra has done two new first ascents in Petrohad, Czech Republic. The boulder problem Underground weighs in at V14 though Adam comments that the grade may be “morphological” implying that it may be easier for someone taller. He also established a V15 called Charon commenting, “Great to feel progression, spent three days on it last winter and now went within 30 minutes. Fits my style exactly.” The thought of Adam Ondra feeling progression is somewhat scary.
Gabri Moroni reports on his blog that he established a new line at his home area of Trento, Italy. The new route, Bella Regis, has been proposed at 5.14c. He notes on his blog, “When I bolted it I hoped there were enough features to climb it and I hoped to find a next level route...After a few goes to clean and put chalk on it I figured out the moves and I realized the route would have not been that hard... well very difficult but actually not in the 9th grade... little shame but the route remains one of the best lines I've seen around and I'm very proud it is one my creature!!
Yuji Hirayama, while in Italy on a slideshow tour, took the opportunity to explore the nearby trad climbing. Planetmountain reports that he was able to onsight, placing gear, the 5.13c Grazie Rickey in Cadarese. In Valle dell'Orco he managed a second try ascent of the famous Green Spit (5.14a trad) before wrapping things up with the first trad ascent of Profondo Rosso (5.13c) in Balmanolesca. Italy has a long tradition of bolting cracks that has slowly changed over the past few years. In an email to Planetmountain, Yuji writes, “Every country obviously has a different approach and background. And it was very nice to see that the Italians are trying to climb cracks in better style!
Sasha Digiulian, after sending her first 9a at the Red River Gorge, wrapped up her trip with a third try ascent of Transworld Depravity (5.14a). This was likely the first female ascent of the route and would be a top headline any other month of the year!
What about your own personal project? Is everyone making progress? Any big sends out there we should know about? When you see one go down, shoot me an email and let me know!