posted by dpm on 05/27/2012
Gabriele Moroni has claimed the third ascent of The Essential (5.14d) in Germany's Frankenjura. This was the third ascent of the route after Markus Bock in 2008 and Adam Ondra in 2009. The route looks nasty hard. It's fairly short and not very steep with tiny one and two finger pockets. Gabri was able to finish the route after falling at the last hard move five times. You can see the 'last hard move' in the video below which features Adam Ondra going for the second ascent as well as footage of him redpointing Der Heilige Gral, another Frankenjura 5.14d.
Gabriele has been ticking away some of the world's hardest routes like the second ascent of Dave Graham's Coup de Grace (5.14d/15a), the first ascent of Coup de Bambou (5.14d) in China, and multiple hard first ascents in his home country of Italy. In all, this was his sixth 5.14d and his second in the Frankenjura. He sent the benchmark Frankenjura 5.14d, Action Directe, in 2010.