posted by dpm on 06/08/2012
In Ceuse, France, Adam Ondra climbed Jungle Boogie (5.15a) and Jonathan Siegrist sent Coraux de la Vie (5.14c). Both former projects are located right in the most classic sectors of what many call the greatest sport climbing cliff in the world. Despite the heavy traffic from the world's best climbers, the crag is still turning out beautiful new routes.
Jungle Boogie is located in the famous Biographie sector at the far left end of the crag. It has a different look and climbs differently than its well-known neighbors. Routes like Realization (5.15a) or Black Bean (5.14a) are huge endurance-oriented rope stretchers while Jungle Boogie is an approximately 60-foot, bouldery power route. Originally bolted by Sylvain Beissier, the project had been tried by many, including Frenchman Sylvain Millet and Enzo Oddo. Ondra's success is no surprise. He's climbed many of the hardest routes at Ceuse including three other first ascents in the Biographie sector: L'étrange Ivresse des Lenteurs (5.15a), the new version of Le Cadre that avoids the chipped hold (5.14d), and Force Used Up (5.14c). Of course, there is one route he has not tried yet and it begs the question; will he try for the flash of Realization on this trip?
Further down the cliff at the Berlin Sector, Jonathan Siegrist could be found working the line that would become Coraux de la Vie (5.14c). According to his blog, he wasn't the only one trying for the first ascent. Jonathan worked the line with other "badasses Arnaud Petit, Michael Fuselier and a strong climber from Grenoble, Quentin." Jonathan described the route: "First go I fell up high, at the route's red-point crux-- a very precarious stab to a one pad mono pinch, followed by (personal beta) a ridiculously high foot and a long rock-over lock-off to a two finger gaston. From here the remaining 20 meters of dead vertical heinousness just keeps coming. You don't find rest or easy terrain until the last bolt, and the runouts keep you on your toes. It's a killer headwall!" With just a short time left in his trip, Siegrist is working another 5.14c/d line in the Berlin sector bolted by Dave Graham and sent by David Lama. Good luck Jonathan!
Jonathan Siegrist on the first ascent of Coraux de la Vie (5.14c). Photo: Andy Mann/Jonathan's blog. More great photos and a thorough write up can be found at Jonathan's blog.