Fabian Buhl Sends Dreamtime

posted by dpm on 03/19/2013

German climber Fabian Buhl has ticked a dream boulder off his list with Dreamtime (V14/15) in Cresciano, Switzerland. First established by Fred Nicole in 2000, Dreamtime is one of the world's most iconic hard lines and has rapidly acquired a storied history. When Fred established the problem, it was considered the benchmark 8c (V15) boulder problem. In 2004, Malcolm Smith claimed the 8th ascent of the problem and suggested a downgrade to 8b+ (V14) which prompted Fred to revisit the boulder. Fred, and 2nd ascentionist Bernd Zangerl, suggested that extensive brushing and cleaning had changed the nature of the problem making it slightly easier. In 2009 a hold broke and the problem was first sent in its current state by Adam Ondra. Now, consensus for the grade hovers around V14/15 but the classic status has never wavered.

Fabian Buhl on Dreamtime. Photo: Stefan Krüzi

Buhl describes on his blog his first encounter with Dreamtime when he was a young climber on his first visit to Cresciano.

"For me this boulder is truely THE Line in Cresciano, when I was with a friend of mine for the first time bouldering in Ticino, he showed me this line and explained that it is Fred's masterpiece. After touching the holds, I was deeply impressed and overwelmed by the line. But I could not imagine to even leave the ground with these holds. So we went onwards and I climbed my first fb 6c+ sloper traverse this trip."

Since then, Buhl progressed through the grades and managed to realize his dream of sending this world class boulder problem. Check out the recap on his blog for the full story in his words.