Enzo Oddo: France's 14 Year Old Phenom

posted by dpm on 11/25/2009

Enzo Oddo: France's 14 Year Old Phenom
Enzo has been slaying hard routes left and right this season.  His latest tick list includes some of France and Spain's steepest 9a's. He can't drive and can barely see over the bar, but this kid 's tick list is mature for its age.

Language barriers are the hardest to overcome. However, at the base of a cliff we all speak the same language; we all want to clip the chains. DPM sat down with Enzo in between burns, and we came back with a rough translation from the eyes of this 14 year old crusher.

 

DPM: Where are you currently?

Enzo: Currently, I am climbing at areas near my house in southern France. I've mostly been bouldering at Gordolasque, a small area of granite boulders.

DPM: What are you working on? 

Enzo: This is the first year that I have regularly bouldered. I think I boulder more intensely than in a session of cragging. There are only two small sites close to me: Gordolasque (granite) and Annot (sandstone). I prefer the granite. 

DPM: You were on a tear during a recent tour in Spain and then France did those routes fit your style? What was your approach? 

Enzo: In general I like short routes of strength or resistance. My approach is to make one or two runs fast enough to work out beta. Sometimes I have shit methods(beta), which I change gradually as I refine my sequence.

DPM: You got to finish Abyss (9a), which is impressive. What were your thoughts on the route and describe your crux?

Enzo: Abyss is a very beautiful line of tufas in a flare overhanging 70°. This route suited me. My crux was the start.  It was a very hard movement to get.. After that crux you just stay on bad crimps with small rests here and there. 

Achieving Punt X was much more demanding physically and psychologically. The pressure in the channel was constant.

DPM: You got to climb with Joe Kinder, Dave and many American strongmen. Did that motivate you, and did you take anything away from the experience? 

Enzo: Each of them showed me something different: Dave had vision and tactics, Joe and Colette enthusiasm, John's methods in the crossing of Inga (THANKS again!!!). And Daniel, the beast, never seen it before, a non-standard physical style he runs from morning to evening on blood and positive attitude...fun guy.


DPM: Do you train indoor or  simply climb outside as much as possible? 

Enzo:
I climb mainly outside. I go indoors only when it rains or I have no choice 

DPM: Describe your perfect problem

Enzo: Action Direct at Frankenjura or Demencia Senile at Margalef. Short, physical and negative holds!

DPM: Who are your sponsors and help you get from crag to crag? 

Enzo: Sterling Rope, Five Ten and Petzl and my family are my partners. They give me equipment and contacts with other members of their team.