posted by dpm on 10/21/2011
About a month ago, I was in Rifle watching Emily project Waka Flocka. Her frustration was apparent. The route is split into two parts by a jug rest about half way up the route. The bottom is the crux so if you do make it to the rest, you should have it in the bag. Emily was still falling on the upper portion, which is understandable. I’ve heard some call it 5.13c by itself. But after another month of work, she was able to link to the jug and not fall off the top, claiming the first female ascent of the route. This makes Emily the second woman to climb 5.14b in Rifle after her friend Jen Vennon sent Stockboy’s Revenge (5.14b) last month. She was able to send just a day before her departure for China and the Petzl Roc trip.
Waka Flocka was bolted and sent by Joe Kinder last year. He named it in honor of one of his favorite rappers, Waka Flocka, a member of the notorious Brick Squad. Emily has decided to reward herself after the send with a brand new ‘gold grill.’ Chains aren't just for clipping!
If you're a hard route, it's best not to front. Waka Flocka and Emily Harrington will likely bust a cap up in your dome-piece.