Dave Graham: Moonshine (5.14d)

posted by dpm on 09/25/2012


The third ascent of Wild Iris, Wyoming's Moonshine falls to Dave Graham. Dave was able to complete the climb in just five tries over a short weekend trip from Colorado. On his Petzl blog, Dave writes: "The actual ascent was very unexpected. I woke up feeling destroyed from the previous two days of climbing, all the cuts from attacking the wall our first day in the Iris hurt real bad, and my legs were destroyed from the crazy hiking we did to a new alpine bouldering zone we checked out in the Wind Rivers. It was about 80 degrees outside; horrible climbing temps for small heinous grips on hard routes."

Dave Graham on Moonshine (5.14d). Photo: Jamie Emerson/Dave's Petzl Blog

Fortunately, the temperatures dropped unexpectedly and a send breeze rolled in. "So I set off. The wind was blowing and it felt super sticky, which allowed me to save some energy through the gnarly moves that take you up to the business. Compressing and torquing, that's how this route climbs. No chalking, clipping is sketch, you cruise into a faint scoop, and that's where you find the moment of truth.

The hard move revolves around a blank expanse of white stone. There is a mono, a scoop, and a crimp, but no feet. Bj does a gnarly pounce-dynamic-jump swoop, Daniel does some robot shit. I get into a strange stance, and dragon in hard with just the tip of the toe. It worked. Punting was the only way off at that point. I was halfway through the window, not going to just let it shut. I got pumped at that point, and nervous I would punt. I had to battle out the final resistance crux, but miraculously nothing slipped. Elated, I clipped the chains."

This is the third ascent of the route after BJ Tilden claimed the first just seven weeks ago, and Daniel Woods got the second last week. Read more about Dave's Wild Iris experience on his blog.