posted by dpm on 03/19/2011
Rising from the flatlands of southern Idaho is a bizarre granite outcrop known as City of Rocks. Though relatively off-the-radar, the region has a long history of route climbing including some very hard routes put up by Tony Yaniro in the late 1980’s. Bouldering there was slow to develop but gained momentum when the Access Fund and the Conservation Fund teamed up to purchase the nearby Castle Rocks, which became a state park in 1999. The two areas combined offer enormous potential for the bouldering that is still being developed.
Castle Rocks, Idaho offers a wealth of excellent bouldering. Photo: visitidaho.org
In 2007, James Litz made frequent trips to Castle Rocks and when the dust had settled he walked away with one of the hardest problems in the country, Warpath. Though James never offered a definitive grade on the line, V15 was speculated for many years. As time passed and Warpath remained unrepeated, its reputation for difficulty grew.
Recently, Daniel Woods, James Webb, Dave Graham and others headed to Idaho with the specific goal of repeating Warpath. Woods came away with the second ascent after two days of effort. The problem climbs out a steep Esperanza-like cave. It is over twenty moves long and reportedly links a V11 into three consecutive sections of V10. Daniel let the grade settle in at V14 and commented on his 8a scorecard: "pure resistance climbing."
Look for footage of the ascent to be released on a feature-length DPM DVD.