posted by dpm on 12/12/2011
Asana Climbing reports via Facebook that Dan Beall has claimed the 3rd ascent of Direct North (V14). The line, first sent by Shawn Diamond, starts at the belly of the Grandma Peabody. Bishop bouldering guidebook author Wills Young gives a detailed description of the line stating, “starting in the underclings, first Direction is itself a V13 sit-start to the original "one-move-wonder" Thunderbird (a tough v11 utilizing a tiny right crimp) and leads to some full-pad crimps above and right of the finish of Center Direct. After gaining the crimps, and taking a shake, perhaps, the line moves up and right following Magnetic North which has a longish span to another small right crimp followed by a tough and nervy heel-hook lock-off to gain good jugs that lead to the lip.”
The 2nd ascent was nabbed late last year by visiting Frenchman Glairon Mondet Guillaume who stated, “that the line is very pure, but also very scary as you have a high heel hook very far off the ground.” Dan can be seen falling from that heel hook in the video below. Glairon confirmed the V14 grade. Footage of Glairon on the second ascent can be seen at minute 7:00 here.
Beall has been occupied with school for the greater half of the fall season, but now that finals are over we can expect some hard lines to go down. Congrats Dan!
Read a DPM interview with Dan here that was posted right after he sent Jade (V14/15) or another one here.