posted by dpm on 09/13/2011

Dai Koyomada on the first ascent of Dark Matter (V14/15). Photo: Dai's Blog
Dai Koyomada has claimed the first ascent of Dark Matter (V14/15) in Magic Wood, Switzerland. After completing the second ascent of In Search of Time Lost (V15) about two weeks ago, Dai spied another potential line in the Darkness Cave. If I’m correctly understanding the translation of Dai’s Japanese blog, his new link-up begins on In Search of Time Lost and climbs about half of it before breaking left and exiting the cave on From the Darkness to the Sunshine (V11). He notes that at 15 meters long and requiring 30 hand moves, the problem is the longest in the Darkness Cave. According to UKclimbing, Dai also returned to The Story of Two Worlds (V15) in Cresciano, Switzerland for redemption. In 2010, Dai claimed the second ascent of the problem but was later told that he accidently had started two moves in. This year, Dai writes, "...I decided to start from lower than Dave (first ascentionist) did. It is both hands, starting from undercling. I solved the move but it is too hot in Cresciano to try. I should try it in lower temperatures."

Dark Matter (V14/15) Photo: Dai's Blog