Dai Koyomada: Daedalus (V14)

posted by dpm on 09/29/2011

 

Dai on Daedalus (V14).  Photo: Angela Wagner/Martin Keller's blog

Dai Koyomada has claimed the second ascent of Daedalus (V14) in Switzerland’s Sustenpass.  The climb was first established by Martin Keller who came very close to sending an extension to the line that will make it even harder.  It’s been interesting to follow along on Dai’s blog as he continues to work for an undisputed ascent of The Story of Two Worlds in Cresciano.  Dai had completed the ascent from one move in before being told that the first ascent started lower.  A quick look at Paul Robinson’s ascent of the problem in the Schengen Files shows the start he and Dave Graham (first ascentionist) used; right hand on the undercling, left on a big sloping rail.  Dai has set out to start even lower with both hands in the undercling.  He succeeded in climbing the problem from the lowest start into The Dagger (the second half of the problem) but warm temps spit him off and had him heading for higher elevation.  At least Dai is making the best of his time in Swizzy as Daedalus looks like a beautiful problem in an amazing setting.    

Sustenpass.  Photo: Dai's blog