Dai Koyamada: 2nd Ascent of In Search of Time Lost (V15)

posted by dpm on 08/30/2011

 

Just one week into his trip to Magic Wood, Switzerland, Dai Koyomada has already managed to claim the second ascent of Daniel Wood’s In Search of Time Lost (V15).  The problem resides on the belly of a steep, overhanging boulder called The Darkness Roof.  In last years interview with DPM, Dai states that  during his 2010 visit to Magic Wood he had managed the stand start to the problem known as Remembrance of Things Past (V14).  Bad weather hampered his efforts on the sit start (In Search of Time Lost) and Dai fell short of achieving his goal.  Upon returning this season he headed straight for the problem and succeeded after approximately one week of effort including rest days. 

 

In Search of Time Lost.  Photo: Dai's Blog

  

 In an email to ukclimbing.com Dai wrote, “I did In Search of Time Lost, it is a second ascent I think. I tried for 4 days. I am sure I am doing the right start and right line because I watched a video from Daniel Woods. I never want to be said I am in a wrong line again.” 

 

In the email Dai wrote, he is referencing his 2010 ascent of The Story of Two Worlds where he thought he had done the 2nd ascent of the line, but unfortunately some bad beta from another visiting climber had him starting two holds in and his ascent was discredited.  After hearing that he had indeed started in the wrong place, Dai took the high road and stated that he would return to Switzerland the following year to repeat the line from the original Dave Graham (FA) start.  It's possible that this is next on his agenda but that is speculation.  We will post updates as Dai's trip, of which he has forty remaining days, continues.

 

Click the Image for video of Daniel Woods on the 2008 first ascent of In Search of Time Lost. Photo: Dai's Blog