Dai Climbs Dream Project

posted by dpm on 11/22/2011

It is not every day that one is able to climb their perfect, dream project.  Two days ago, Dai Koyamada reported that he had done just that.  While driving around during a rest day in Kasagi, Japan, Dai spotted this line from the roadside.  After consulting the landowner, wading through negotiations and spending three days working with his local land management services to clear away a lot of garbage found at the base, he was able to go to work unlocking the sequence.  The line is a mixture of compression, finger-locks and dynamic movement following a crack up a very steep face.

Photo: Dai's Blog

Dai called his finding of the line “fateful” and he spent a great deal of time unlocking the sequence.  What initially began in May slowly crept into June after which Dai left for 2 months to climb in Switzerland.  After putting down some of the forest's hardest lines, Dai returned and was able to link the sit start into his mid-point on the problem then strangely found himself standing atop the mantle.  So, after 14 days, Dai was able to grab the first ascent of Tokoyo or Distant and he left the line with mixed feelings which he shared on his blog,  (loose translation)  “I felt stronger than usual mixed feelings not say anything but joy and loneliness. Climb, climb must be, in the conflicting feelings that I want to try a great project and the desire to forever, we must own a professional climb out strong feelings. Or it may become painful sometimes.”

Currently, a grade has not been given to the problem.

-Anthony Lapomardo

Photo: Dai's Blog

 

Photo: Dai's Blog