Craig Hurst and Idaho’s Latest V13

posted by dpm on 12/02/2009

The Asana Crew and Craig Hurst have been tearing through the Castle Area in Idaho putting up dozens of new lines.  Craig recently unlocked the beta to a thin line on a beautiful over hanging face, which requires dead-point accuracy and stomach churning core tension.  Craig just hit us up with the details of his latest problem, Green in the Face as well as other climbing exploits.

DPM: How many years have you been climbing?
Craig: I have been climbing 6 years

DPM: What drew you to this line?
Craig: Thin holds and its height.

DPM: What did you name it?
Craig: Green in the Face

DPM:  How many days/seasons of work did you put into it?
Craig: It took me four days

DPM: Type of climbing?
Craig:  Green in the Face (V13) is a ridiculously thin line, consisting of about 14 moves. The problem requires you to move up sharp crimps on a slightly over hanging wall which requires a large amounts of core tension, and strong lock off ability.  What was most attracting for me was not just the thin holds, but also its height (it is about 22 feet tall) which made it more than just a physical problem, but also a mental problem.

 

DPM: Describe the crux.
Craig: The problem has three sections, section one is a 5 move wonder, also being the main crux. There are three things that make it the hardest section, first is pain, the holds are super sharp. Second is the length of the moves. The third is precision, you can't over shoot your holds!
Section two is nice because all the holds are not as sharp as the first section. The crux of section two is unwinding and holding all your weight on your right hand in hopes of catching a small left handed crimp. This section wasn't the hardest but it took me two days to figure out the tension. Section three is fun, really big moves on not so great holds. The crux of section three is dealing with your height and switching from overhang climbing to a sketchy slab section, three is only 4 moves, but two of the moves are 4 feet long! Not the hardest section but, I fell from the top two times on red point attempts.

 

DPM: Where is it located?
Craig: The problem is located on Green wall which is just past the "Taco Cave" by about 5 min in "Castle Rock State Park" which is right next to "City of Rocks National Reserve". both areas are known for their great rope lines. A few years ago you would have never seen people walking around with pads, today is different, City and Castle are now being explored for more than just new routes. Climbers are now looking at the possibility of boulder problems; I am one of those climbers looking for new lines. I couldn't find such problems if I didn't have the support of Asana and my climbing friends. In 2010 the Asana Crew and I are hoping to find a dozens of new problems in the V9-V11+ range.

 

DPM: What other notable sends or lines have you put up in the area?
Craig: Demon Daze V10, Hookers V10 FA? .Last week we put up a sweet V9 just past green wall. There is a link up to Green in the Face, a super thin line on a 45+ degree wall that is possible.

DPM: Shout out to your sponsors?
Craig: I have been working with Asana, no other sponsors at the moment, but there is only one shoe you will see me in LA SPORTIVA

DPM: Favorite tunes to bump while you're climbing?
Craig: I like it quite! Silence...