Ciavaldini and Pearson: Hard Multipitch in Sardinia

posted by dpm on 04/16/2012


Caroline Ciavaldini and James Pearson are one week into their little voyage to the Italian island of Sardinia to explore the world of hard multi-pitch sport routes.  So far, they have ticked two routes off their list, Mezzogiorno di Fuoco (8b/5.13d, 270m) and Amico Fragile (8b/5.13d, 230m).

The topo showing the wall of Mezzogiorno di Fuoco (5.13d/8b)

The couple both made free ascents of the two routes, each in a single day.  Mezzogiorno di Fuoco was flashed by James, with Caroline needing just a few attempts at the harder pitches.  James also came remarkably close to onsighting Amico Fragile, succeeding on the 50m 8b/5.13d pitch only to slip off a dirty 7b/12b higher on the wall.

Caroline sizes up Amico Fragile (5.13d/8b)

Caroline and James will remain on the island until the end of the month and hope to complete a further few projects.  The aim of the trip is to explore the difference of ethics between equipping a route from the ground-up or from rappel, and to see how this decision affects future climber’s experience.

Mezzogiorno di Fuoco was equipped in 2006 by Rolando Larcher, Maurizio Oviglia and Roberto Vigiani.  The first free ascent was made by Rolando Larcher in 2007.  The route is very sustained (7a/11d, 8b/13d, 6c/11a, 8a+/13c, 7c+/13a, 7c/12d, 7a/11d) and exposed (large runouts, up to 10m), but above all else, contains stunning climbing in a spectacular position.

Amico Fragile was first climbed in 2006 by Marco Vago and Simone Pedeferri, after earlier attempts in 2005 from Fabrizio Fratagnoli and Mateo Della Bordella.  The main pitch is a stunning 50m 8b/13d that tackles a drastically steep and sustained collenette, yet the first two pitches should not be underestimated, with long run-outs on delicate rock.

The duo have been on a tear in Europe with James having recently completed his first 5.14d with Esclatamasters and Caroline having sent her first 5.14c with Mind Control. 

Source and photos: James Pearson and Caroline Ciavaldini

Impressive scenery in Sardinia.