Chealsea Smile

posted by dpm on 04/24/2009

New Englander's have no shortages of boulders. Glacier eratics are abound in the north eastern states. Outside Providence, Rhode Island, a cluster of boulders known as Lincoln Woods has grown to become as popular with local climbers as the Boulder Rock Club on crisp weekends.

It's popularity has led to countless variations on the featured granite holds.  New lines are non existant, with the exception of a handful of incredible difficult nail biters that remain unrepeated. Ty Landman, took a sojourn from visiting schools on his stateside visit to check out Lincoln Woods and managed to open one such line.

 

"I've decided to call it "The Chelsea Smile", after a savage torture technique, that originated in the borough of London that I'm from. And the marks this climb leaves on your finger tips."

Chealsea Smile, V13, is a four move sit-start to an old Matt Wilder Problem that pulls through horrible sharp holds. Landman worked out the sequence with his friend Phil Schaal (5.10 Blog) over the course of three days.

"As to its difficulty, it's hard to say as I am not in the best shape I've ever been in. At first I thought it was hard 8B but I am starting to think it may be harder. Especially with the way grades are inflating today. I am reluctant to call it 8B+ because in isolation the holds aren't ridiculous and the moves aren't outrageous. However, the psychological challenges that this problem as a whole presents, are major, and I think that any normal human being will struggle, due to the rock's fierce nature. Who knows? But, for those who dare, the nightmare's right there..." -excerpt from Landman's Moon Climbing Blog