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Carlo Traversi: The Story of Two Worlds (V15)

posted by dpm on 03/26/2013

 

Carlo Traversi has finished up The Story of Two Worlds (V15) in Cresciano, Switzerland. This is Carlo's fifth of the grade and he considers it his hardest ascent to date. Despite being one of the most sought after sends, and the benchmark for the 8c/V15 grade, this is only the fifth ascent after: Dave Graham, Dai Koyamada, Paul Robinson, and Jernej Kruder.

Carlo finishing out the latter half of The Story of Two Worlds, a section called The Dagger that is V13/14 on it's own. Photo: Carlo's Facebook 

If you're familiar with the problem's history, it's likely that your first thought is to question where Carlo started. The problem was established by Dave Graham in 2005 and then repeated by Dai Koyamada in 2010 who was later told he started in the wrong spot. Dai returned to the problem in 2012 and added a lay-down start that he considered V16. The story of which starting holds to use could fill two volumes but if you're interested, you can start reading about it here and chase the links for more info.

On his 8a.nu scorecard, Carlo said that he, "Started sitting two moves lower than where Dave started. This is where I was originally told that the problem started and it is the most obvious place, in my opinion, to begin the boulder. Definitely adds to the overall difficulty."  

Click here to watch a great video documenting Dai Koyamada's epic struggle to resend the problem from the lowest start possible.