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Céüse: breaking news, UPDATED Enzo Oddo sends Realization!

posted by dpm on 08/15/2010

Update: August 16, 2010.  Fifteen-year-old Enzo Oddo made history yesterday with his much anticipated redpoint ascent of Realization 5.15a at Ceuse, France.  His ascent is noteworthy, not only because of his age, and not only because it's Realization, but because this is the first ascent since the hold broke in the opening boulder problem.  The V9 start is now V11 and there has been some 5.15b speculation floating around.  Even if the change doesn't warrant an upgrade the route is certainly harder now than it was.  

An interesting twist on the story is that French news sources report the ascent as "Biographie" and Jens Larssen of 8a.nu states "Apparently the name was changed back to 'Biographie' which was the original name for the whole route."  What should we call this route?  Share your thoughts in the forum.  http://www.deadpointmag.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=59

Céüse, France is lighting up as a hot spot in the European climbing scene right now.
 
 
Adam Ondra has been on a trip through France and, as usual, is killing it. Before going to Céüse he managed to send two 5.14d’s and a healthy selection of second try 5.14c’s. Upon his arrival he was able to onsight the famous Dures Limites 5.14b, snag the first ascent of a 70-meter Dave Graham project at the Biographie Sector (unnamed 5.14c), and fall agonizingly close to onsighting the 70-meter 5.14c, No Futur.  
 
Austrian David Lama was able to get the first ascent of an open Dave Graham project at the Berlin Sector. The unnamed line climbs a near vertical face past some long-runouts and checks in at 5.14c.
 
15-year-old French climber Enzo Oddo has spent his summer falling at the last hard moves of Realization 5.15a. Unfortunately, a Slovenian climber, also working the route, shattered one of the holds of the initial boulder problem. The new start is rumored to be V11 which will certainly add a bit of difficulty to the overall route.
 
      
In other Céüse‘broken hold’ news the popular 5.14b L’ Arcadémicien lost a hold and is now considered hard 5.14b. It saw a few ascents this summer but most notable was an ascent by the French woman Alizée Dufraisse making it the hardest female ascent yet done at Céüse. 
 
 
Another notable ascent comes from American Sasha Digiulian who is currently posted up a bit further south in Rodellar, Spain. She recently sent Philipe Cuisinere 5.14a and her first 5.14b Welcome to Tijuana.