Ben Spannuth: Le Rêve (5.14d)

posted by dpm on 02/21/2013


Ben Spannuth has claimed the 2nd ascent of Le Rêve (5.14d) in Arrow Canyon, Nevada. Le Rêve was an old project that finally saw a first ascent by Jonathan Siegrist almost exactly one year ago. Last year, Ben went up the route once but decided instead to focus on Golden Direct, a 5.14c at the nearby Cathedral Cave.

Starting up Le Rêve. Photos by Paul Berry and Tom Smartt. 

After a climbing trip to Colombia, South America, he returned to the Vegas area for the winter months to focus on one of the hardest routes in the area.  

"I came back from Colombia and wanted to project something again," he said. "The last few months have been about exploring and finding new stuff so I wanted to just set up shop on something I knew was high quality and challenging."

"Le Rêve is amazing. There are three boulder problems and it breaks down like this: A hard slopey/ condition dependent crux, then a bomber rest, then an easy section to an ok rest. Then there's a  kinda hard mono crux to a poor rest that leads to a kinda hard final drop knee/ two finger stack crux. If you get through that, there's a good rest and a victory jug run. I fell off the redpoint crux four times in ok/ bad conditions then the perfect wind came through and it felt fantastic and sticky the whole way."

Ben on Le Rêve

Ben gave props to the equipper saying, " I don't remember who bolted it but he did a great job following the line." He's not sure what to focus on next but mentioned that he's a bit turned off by Necessary Evil's location next to the highway. Joe Kinder's unrepeated Tiger Blood (5.14c) might be on the agenda.

Well done Ben. Watch video of Jonathan Siegrist on the first ascent of Le Rêve by clicking on the image below. 

Click the image to watch Jonathan Siegrist on the first ascent of Le Rêve.