posted by dpm on 05/13/2014
Martin Keller has claimed another first ascent just two weeks after establishing Gepresster Hase (V15) in Sustenpass, Switzerland. His newest addition was a long-standing project in Brione, Switzerland that he’s calling Nike with a proposed grade of 8B+/V14.
Martin Keller on the first ascent of Nike (V14) in Brione, Switzerland. Photo: Angela Wagner
Martin’s been trying the line since 2008 and finally got the perfect alignment of fitness and conditions during a rainy spell that had other boulderers fleeing the country. A “crazy foen-wind” blew in creating a brief window of opportunity and Martin ticked the line during an evening session.
Martin writes that the problem is located amongst many other classic problems on the Atlantis boulder and that it had been tried by many and thought to be impossible. In 2009, he unlocked the sequence through the short roof and topped out straight up for the first ascent of Supertussi, a still unrepeated 8B/V13. But the line he wanted to climb thwarted him until yesterday. He calls Nike “a real Greek Goddess, beautiful to look at but very tricky and brutal to fight with…don’t mess with her.”
Martin also notes that there is a still undone low start to the problem that involves some painful one-finger locks in the crack. It will surely add some difficulty to this already very difficult problem.
Martin Keller on Nike (V14). Photo: Angela Wagner