Angie Payne Slays Her Nemesis: Freaks of the Industry (V13)

posted by dpm on 08/01/2014

B3bouldering reports on Facebook that Angie Payne has sent Freaks of the Industry (V13) at Lower Chaos Canyon, Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado. 

From Angie's blog two years ago:

"Freaks is a nemesis that surpasses all nemeses I have ever had.  This is not the first time I have invested multiple seasons in a boulder problem, but it is the first time I have experienced a mental battle of this magnitude.  I have done every conceivable link on the boulder problem, save starting from one or two moves in, and I know I am capable of completing it.  Yet, I have climbed to the end section of the problem more times than I’ll ever be able to count, only to fall at or a few moves past what is typically considered the linkage crux.  I have tried countless mental approaches—getting angry, relaxing, letting my mind wander, repeating a mantra as I climb, screaming, rhythmic breathing, acting like my life depends on it, pretending I couldn’t care less about it, even drawing positive reminders on my arm—you name it, I have probably tried it.  But the battle continues."

Sending the problem two years AFTER it had already grown into a nemesis of mythical proportion warrants a huge congratulations.

This is Angie's 2nd V13. Her first was the Automator, also in RMNP, in 2010. Her ascent of that problem marked the world's first female ascent of a confirmed V13. Watch the exclusive DPM video of Angie climbing the Automator by clicking the image below. 

Click the image to watch video of Angie Payne on the Automator. Make sure you're logged in to gain access to this Stash video. It's free.