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Angie Payne Climbs The Automator V13

posted by dpm on 08/18/2010

reported by Jackie Hueftle
 
Yesterday, August 17, 2010, 25 year old Angie Payne became the first Woman the world to climb a confirmed V13 (8B) with her ascent of The Automator at Lower Chaos Canyon, Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado. The only known previous female ascent of a problem suggested to be 8B is Barbara Zangerl's May 2008 ascent of Pura Vida (V12/13 or 8A+/8B) in Magic Wood, Switzerland.
 
Screen shot from the Uncut video of Angie on Greener Grasses
 
The Automator is a steep, sideways, tensiony, crimpy, power-endurance problem put up by Dave Graham in August of 2000. According to 8a.nu,it has been given V13 by all previous ascentionists. Angie is one of the most respected female climbers in the United States, and perhaps the world, and with her recent comeback from injury (including an amazing performance at The Battle in The Bubble in May and her FFA of the difficult V12 (8A+) No More Greener Grasses at Mount Evans earlier this summer - video HERE), it is no surprise that she is the one to take female bouldering to the next level. You can read a recent interview with Angie about what it was like to be out of climbing and how it affected her perspective in the Women's Issue of Deadpoint. Stay tuned for an exclusive video of her ascent on DPM.