Alex Savage Claims “likely” 3rd ascent of Green in the Face (V13)

posted by dpm on 04/05/2011


Alex Savage continues to tick off problems on his US tour and he does not seem to be showing signs of slowing.  Yesterday, Alex walked away from the state of Idaho with a send of one of Castle Rock’s most coveted lines, Green in the Face (V13).  The Castle Rock area has seen a lot of traffic lately, mostly due to James Litz’s Warpath (V14).  However, there is another tall, less-overhanging, face called the Green Wall that holds another gem put up by Craig Hurst.  The Green Wall is beautifully colored and the wall’s testpiece, Green in the Face, takes a direct line out the middle of the wall on painfully thin crimps. Savage stated in his blog that this problem looked more inspiring to him than Warpath so he began to gather spotters to work the line.


Alex working the opening moves of Green in the Face (V13)  Photo: Mike McClure


On his first day on the route, Savage was able to do all the moves except the long reach to the final crimp protecting the lip.  His first set of burns left his skin at a point that it was too painful to hold onto the opening moves.  He also managed to break a large foothold, making the problem more difficult.  Savage was forced to rest.  On his rest day he hiked up several pads to the bottom of the wall to prep for another burn, in order to beat the rain.  Savage pushed himself and got in another burn, refining his beta, but his attempts were unsuccessful and another rest day followed.  He continued to work the line throughout the week during breaks in the weather but still continued to have trouble sticking the last move.


Alex cruxing on the opening thin crimps.  Photo: Mike McClure


 Finally, on Monday, after six days working the line, a Facebook post surfaced stating that Alex had hiked up to the line by himself, covered the landing with his pads, and grabbed the “likely” third ascent of Green in the Face (V13).  Alex stated in his blog that the style of the climb is comparable to Crown of Aragorn (V13) in Hueco Tanks except that the moves were consistently hard throughout.


Alex entering the first crux section.  Screen image: Alex Savage


Cameras set upon two tripods were rolling and captured footage of the send which will be featured on his upcoming climbing flick Western Gold.


Cutting feet on the upper crux.  Screen image: Alex Savage


To follow Alex on his tour visit


-Anthony Lapomardo