Alex Megos Climbs Biographie (5.15a) in a Day

posted by dpm on 07/12/2014

Another unbelievable performance from Alex Megos... Yesterday, Alex lightheartedly reported on Facebook, "YEAAAH! Having a great time here in Ceüse!!! AMAZING rock and some of the best routes I ever did! Super happy to have done the classic "Realization" or "Biographie" (however you want to call it) in one day yesterday! Checked out the route and send it in 3rd Go afterwards."

Alex Megos on Killer (5.13d). Photo: Dmmclimbing.com

Megos' ascent is the 9th since the route was first climbed after a multi-year siege by a young Chris Sharma in 2001. Since then it's only been climbed by the world's elite climbers, all of whom had to invest a significant amount of time into the route. It goes without saying that a 3rd try, in-a-day ascent is by far the fastest ascent to date.

Alex Megos was the first climber in history to onsight 5.14d with Siurana's Estado Critico in March of last year. Recently, he seems to be toying with world famous test-pieces, just seeing if he can do them quickly. In May he sent the world's first 9a/5.14d, Action Directe, in just two hours and followed it up with a 90-minute ascent of The Man that Follows Hell (5.14d). In all, he sent five Frankenjura 9th grade routes in quick succession. At the end of June, Megos ticked off To tu ještě nebylo, Adam Ondra's ground up 5.14d route in Germany's Elbsandstein.

It's become clear that Megos is on par with Adam Ondra in terms of ability and maybe even capable of entering a league of his own. It would be interesting to see what Megos could accomplish with more than a day of effort.  

And here's the footage that never gets old: Chris Sharma on the first ascent of Realization/Biographie.