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Alex Megos Claims the First Ascent of Australia's First 5.14d

posted by dpm on 08/19/2013

 

Alex Megos has claimed the first ascent of Australia's hardest route, Retired Extremely Dangerous (5.14d) at Diamond Fall in the Blue Mountains. Known as the Red Project, the route was bolted by Garth Miller in 1999 and has been tried by some of Australia's best including Lee Cossey. Megos worked the moves and gave it several redpoint attempts on his first day. His second day saw him falling at the defined crux at 3/4 height, and then he sent after a rest day and a few more tries. In all, it took Alex approximately twenty tries over three days to send the route. It seems fair to assume that the grade is quite solid as Megos has onsighted 5.14d and climbed La Rambla (5.15a) on his second try.

Alex Megos on Retired Extremely Dangerous at Diamond Fall, Blue Mountains. Photo: Simon Carter/onsight.com.au.

Alex has been in Australia for some time now and done much more than just climb the continent's hardest route. At Mt. Arapiles he sent Somalia (5.14b), and at the Grampians he sent the famous and beautiful Groove Train (5.14b). After shifting his focus to the Blue Mountains, he had a remarkable day in which he flashed Pooferator (5.14a) and sent Truck Stop 31 (5.14b) first try, a flash except that it shares the start with Pooferator. He then onsighted Fabricator (5.13c), then sent a 5.14c link-up, first try, that starts on Pooferator and finishes up Fabricator.

Photographer Simon Carter was there for much of the action and has the full report and more photos on his website. Read the whole story at onsight.com.au.