posted by dpm on 07/24/2014
Adam Ondra found the time between World Cup competitions to finish off Biographie (5.15a) at Ceuse, France this past week. It's been two years since Adam's highly-publicized flash attempt on the route and since that time he's reportedly taken a few more cracks at it. The French site Grimper reports that, altogether, the route took him about ten tries over the past two years.
Adam's ascent is the 10th ascent of the 13-year-old route established by Chris Sharma in 2001. Interestingly, the route saw no ascents between Enzo Oddo's 2010 ascent (the first after a hold broke making the opening crux harder) and Jonathan Siegrist's recent ascent in June. Most recently, of course, was Alex Megos' outrageous fourth try, in-a-day ascent which he pulled off just last week.
Ondra also visited the French crag Volx and onsighted Superplafond (5.14c). Though not as popular as it once was (and now known for being one of the most polished crags in the world), in the late 80's, Volx was at the forefront of hard European sport climbing. In 1994, JB Tribout was the first to redpoint the link-up known as Superplafond, which links Ben Moon's 1989 route Le Plafond (8c/5.14b) and Terminator (5.13d). If you're old enough, you might remember seeing great footage of JB Tribout climbing Superplafond in the old VHS movie "Masters of Stone 3."
Ondra was quite proud of this onsight ascent despite the fact that it was his eighteenth 5.14c or harder onsight. He explained to Planetmountain.com:
"No one has ever onsighted a route of this difficulty dates back to before 2000. It's always seemed to me that all the routes I've done that date back to the 90's are really tough for the grade, that's why I really wasn't expecting to onsight it. What's more, the route is really short, really bouldery and I had to place all the quickdraws. But I felt strong, everything flowed perfectly and I got lucky!"