posted by dpm on 02/03/2014
Adam Ondra has claimed the second ascent of Chris Sharma’s famous Margalef route: First Round, First Minute (9b/5.15b). The short, power route climbs tufa runnels up the belly of the Laboratorio sector’s sweeping overhang and was made famous by the Big UP footage of Sharma going for broke during his 2011 first ascent. It’s already been nearly three years since Sharma sent the route and during that time, Ondra has tried it on a few occasions.
In 2011, he put a little bit of effort in after sending Era Vella and Gancho Perfecto (9a/5.14d). According to Planet Mountain, despite horrible conditions on his last day, “Adam decided to check out the moves once more to remember them, then left Margalef."
In November of this past fall, there was a little blip on the internet radar when a brief clip of Ondra trying the route was posted to Instagram. Obviously, he came away empty-handed that trip but in an interview with Andrew Bisharat the following month, he stated that he’d, “tried for two days this autumn (unfortunately didn’t have more time) and got surprisingly close after merely two days of work.” He also stated that sending First Round, First Minute was one of his goals for 2014.
And now, very early in the year, comes the unsurprising word that Adam Ondra has achieved his goal. If you’re keeping track, like I am, this is Adam Ondra’s 30th 5.15 route. Including this ascent, nine of those are 5.15b and three are 5.15c.