9a's for Gabri Moroni in Frankenjura

posted by dpm on 09/28/2013


Gabri Moroni has claimed the 2nd ascent of Classified (9a/+) and the third ascent of Sever the Wicked Hand (9a) in Germany's Frankenjura. Originally bolted by Christian Bindhammer, the first ascent of Classified fell to Alex Megos earlier this year. Alex was hesitant to suggest a grade but deferred to the suggestions of Bindhammer and Markus Bock who both tried the route. Moroni writes on his 8a.nu scorecard that after some discussion with Megos, they "think the grade would need a slash since it can't be considered as a solid 9a+ but neither a 9a... so 9a/a+ sounds good!" The route took Gabri around 15 tries in "not always the best conditions." It is his first 9a/+ route though he'd previously sent six other 9a's, his first being the Frankenjura classic Action Directe in 2010.  

Two days after his ascent of Classified, Moroni ticked the third ascent of Sever the Wicked Hand (9a). This route was established by Markus Bock in 2011 and just recently saw its 2nd ascent by Alex Megos. He also sent a few more 8c and 8c+ routes this year to add to his rapidly growing list of hard Frankenjura ascents. Click the image below to watch video of Gabri climbing Zugzwang (8c+) in the Frankenjura.

Click the image for video.