5.14d and V15 for Daniel Woods

posted by dpm on 09/19/2012

On a short trip to Lander, Wyoming, Daniel Woods came away with the second ascent of BJ Tilden's new Wild Iris route Moonshine (5.14d). Daniel's wife Courtney shot some video (below) and described the ascent: "Moonshine is a short bouldery power endurance line which contains monos, dishes, and small pockets. Daniel figured out all the moves and was making send burns on day 1, but was not able to satch it up. After a "Jamie (Emerson)" rest day (lots of hiking and searching for new boulders) Daniel came back to try again. Daniel gave a few burns with BJ's original beta for the crux move (a low percentage dynamic dead point move to a 2 finger pocket), but was still not having any success. Daniel then figured out a static way to do the crux, and he sent it the next try."

Click the image for video of Daniel Woods on a working burn of Moonshine (5.14d). Video: Courtney Sanders/FB

During that "Jamie" rest day of exploring the Devil's Kitchen area, Daniel managed a V11 first ascent called One Shot Antelope that he described as "straight out of Brione." The next day he sent Moonshine, then at some point drove back to Colorado, and the following day established a V15 boulder problem in Wild Basin, Rocky Mountain National Park. He described his new problem, White Noise, on his 8a scorecard as "24 moves of power endurance climbing. The purest traverse that I have seen or done with a scary finish. There is no other way to go up on the boulder besides traversing from one arête to another. Perfect holds and moves."