5.14c onsight for Magnus Midtbø

posted by dpm on 04/19/2013


Magnus Midtbø has onsighted Cosi fan Tutte (8c+/5.14c) at Rodellar, Spain.  As Magnus described the day on his blog, it started out with an epic approach to the Piscineta crag which requires either a long approach over a mountain or a short swim upstream. After recovering from the cold swim, Magnus further warmed up by onsighting the 8a+/5.13c Black Pearl. Feeling strong, he went for the onsight of the 55-meter Cosi Fan Tutte and, with relative ease, climbed to the top where he was met with a final crux.

"From a good undercut, where I could rest, I grabbed a two-finger pocket and reached as high as I could in hopes on finding something to pull on. Many times I retreated to the undercut. The sun was shining directly on the slab and in my eyes, making it even harder to see where I was supposed to go. After repeating the process of searching for holds and resting I knew I had to do something before getting too tired to have any chance. So I grabbed the pocket, reached as far as I could. I only got two fingers on a slopey edge, and thought I was going to fall. I then bumped to get my remaining fingers on the hold, before I jumped to a decent looking hold. My feet cut, and I desperately got them above the lip. I grabbed some slopey crimpers without any chalk. Then reached out to the top hold, thinking I could fall at any moment. Not until I had clipped the chain I was safe."

Magnus holds on at the top of Cosi Fan Tutte during his onsight. Photo by Henning Wang/Magnus' blog.

Magnus' ascent makes him the fifth person to ever onsight the grade of 5.14c after Patxi Usobiaga, Adam Ondra, Ramon Julian, and Alex Megos (9a/5.14d onsight). He seems to be in top form after his second spring season in Catalunya devoted to climbing the second ascent of Chris Sharma's Neanderthal (9b+/5.15b) at the Santa Linya Cave. Like last year, he couldn't pull off the send due to wet holds, poor conditions, and, of course, the difficulty of the line. He wrote on the Norrøna blog,  "I feel like I’m in the shape of my life after investing so much time in Neanderthal. Unfortunately it didn’t go this season, but at least I got to put the shape in good use."