5.14b's for Ashima in Céüse

posted by dpm on 08/02/2013

<p> &nbsp;</p> <p> 12-year-old Ashima Shiraishi has just wrapped up the first leg of her European trip and is on to the next. In France, she spent three weeks at C&eacute;&uuml;se, a sport crag touted as the best in world, and while there achieved some unsurprisingly impressive ascents. She sent <em>Slow Food</em> (5.14a) on her second try, flashed <em>Dolce Vita</em> (5.13c) and completed a number of other 5.13b&#39;s and 5.13c&#39;s. Last week, she sent the famous route <em>Dures Limites</em> (5.14b) on her second try which encouraged her to try <em>L&#39;arcademicien des Crepis</em>&nbsp;(5.14b). Ashima wrote in an email to DPM:</p> <p> <em>&quot;With some great beta from Arnaud Petit I managed to get all the moves. After a quick photo shoot for Grimper magazine on my last day I tried the climb once but fell at the top of the crux and was about to give up but I decided to try hard one more time. Feeling awful in the beginning I knew that I would probably fall off at the crux, but I kept on moving. By the time I reached the place I had fallen before, I told myself that I was not going let go before the anchors and kept on going. Before I knew it I was at the top!!!! I am so happy that I kept on holding on! Au revoir Ceuse! On to Switzerland!!!&quot;</em></p> <p class="rtecenter"> <img alt="" src="/sites/default/files/uploads/images/RE_CLB_CEUSE_D332704.jpg" style="width: 460px; height: 692px; " /></p> <p class="rtecenter"> <em>Ashima on her ascent of Dures Limites (5.14b). Photo:&nbsp;<a href="http://visualimpact.ch/" target="_blank" title="This external link will open in a new window">visualimpact.ch</a>&nbsp;| Rainer Eder</em></p> <p class="rteleft"> &nbsp;</p> <p> Ashima has an outrageous ticklist for a 12-year-old, or anyone for that matter. She and her family have wasted no time in seeing the world&#39;s best climbing locations either. Last summer, she headed to South Africa for a bouldering trip where she flashed V11 and climbed the V13&#39;s <em>Fragile Steps</em> and <em>Steady Plums Direct. </em>Shorter trips during school holidays have taken her to Hueco Tanks, Texas and the Red River Gorge, Kentucky. Notable ascents in Hueco include <em>The Power of Silence</em> (V10) at the age of 8, and <em>Crown of Aragorn</em> (V13) at the age of 10. Last fall, Ashima visited the Red River Gorge and within a week became the youngest person to climb the grade of 5.14c with an ascent of <em>Southern Smoke</em>. The next day, she doubled down with an ascent of <em>Lucifer</em>. Click the image below to watch Ashima climb <em>Southern Smoke</em> and <em>Lucifer</em> at the Red River Gorge.</p> <p class="rtecenter"> <a href="http://www.dpmclimbing.com/climbing-videos/watch/ashima-shiriashi-lucifer-14c" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="/sites/default/files/uploads/images/ashima day 1 288 resize(1).jpg" style="width: 460px; height: 690px; " /></a></p> <p class="rtecenter"> <a href="http://www.dpmclimbing.com/climbing-videos/watch/ashima-shiriashi-lucifer-14c" target="_blank"><em>Click the image for video.&nbsp;</em></a></p>