5.14b for Audrey Sniezek

posted by dpm on 09/10/2012


Audrey Sniezek at the crux of Dr. Evil. Photo: Bryan Moncada

Audrey Sniezek has tacked on the harder finish to Dr. Evil at Little Si, Washington, joining a very small crew of American women to have climbed the 5.14b grade. Just three weeks after sending Dr. Evil, her first 5.14a, Audrey was able to complete the variation Extended Evil (5.14b). After the full crux section of Dr. Evil, Extended Evil branches left to finish up Extended Illness (5.13c). Instead of the relatively casual post-crux romp to the chains of Dr. Evil, Extended Evil adds the crux boulder problem of Extended Illness bumping the difficulty up a notch. On her 8a scorecard, Audrey commented, "I fought to stay on so this was a pleasant surprise. Fell at the chains the day prior and had to enjoy the route one more time! I found this overall more challenging than Dr. Evil...but I'm not an expert at this grade." Four of the five ascents registered at 8a.nu have considered the route to be 5.14b. This is the first female ascent.

Look for an in-depth interview with Audrey coming soon to our 'Pro-files' section.