The past month or so has been devoted to the World Cup in Slovenia that I am about to attend. Besides training for my upcoming competition I have found myself getting out to the land of endless boulders, Joe's Valley. The climbing there is amazing and I am psyched to say I have found quite an amazing project that I am very excited to get back there for, the low start to "Skeleton Key," V11. My last trip there I made a few quick ascents of some really great harder climbs. One of which that interested me the most was "The Masterpiece," V13 (watch the video HERE). The line climbs out a severe overhang and ends with some awesome campus moves and a technical scary finish. I was psyched to get the third ascent and fortunately took it down in a matter of a few goes!
I have only a few more days until I depart for Kranj, Slovenia! It may seem odd that I am heading half way around the world to compete in a Lead World Cup but I have been training hard and my psyche is beyond high. I have never traveled so far for a competition in my life besides when I visited Japan a few years ago and competed in the Five Ten Cup. Both trips were of the same duration, 5 days, and having witnessed extreme jet lag I am trying this time to combat it at full force.
I have been climbing and training at Movement Climbing and Fitness Center in Boulder, CO. The wall in Kranj is approximately 45 feet tall and overhangs over 30 feet in total. This is a bit more than the walls at Movement but I think that this gym is more than good enough to prepare for the competition ahead of me.
To combat the jet lag I have decided to get on a sleeping schedule that is closer that that of CET (Central European Time), where the comp is being held. Since I am in Colorado I am now eight hours behind them in terms of time. So for the remainder of the days before my trip I am going to be going to bed at 7:00 pm Mountain time (3:00 am CET) and waking up at 3:00 am Mountain Time (11:00 am CET). I realize that this is not perfect however I think that it will give me some adjustment and able to cope with the lag better than just being put directly into their time zone the day before the competition. I am hoping that by the middle of the week I may be able to go to sleep at 6:00 pm here in Boulder and wake up at 2:00 am. We shall see but there is no point in not giving 110% for this competition.
The competition itself is set up into a two day event. The first day begins with the qualification round that is two routes followed by the semifinal round which is one single route. Most world cup competitions are set up where the semifinal and the final are on the same day however this one is a bit different since the qualifiers and finals are on the same day. None the less, the final is on the second day and is on one extremely long and difficult route. There are going to be many amazing climbers at this competition and I very much look forward to competing against them this up coming weekend! Wish me luck!